Chef Cherven Desauguste has a flair for plating and presentation, therefore Mesob Restaurant trends more upscale than the standard establishments.
By Tyler Fox (The Kansas City Star) |
A restaurant that straddles the borders of multiple cuisines is not a new concept in American dining: Think “fusion” cuisine, with its melding of global ingredients and far-flung techniques. But it’s far less common to find a restaurant that attempts multiple yet distinctly separate cuisines under one roof.
The 4-month-old Mesob Restaurant, featuring dual menus of Ethiopian and Caribbean food, sits in the far corner of a midtown shopping center across from the Uptown Theater. This section of Broadway is notable for its recent influx of ethnic eateries, including French-Vietnamese iPhotower, Shio Japanese ramen and Krokstrom Klubb & Market Scandinavian charcuterie.
Mesob is not your average jerk chicken joint, nor is it a simple take on Ethiopian staples like the fragrantly spiced, braised vegetable and meat dishes served on bubbly, soft injera bread. Chef Cherven Desauguste’s skills were honed in the kitchens of south Florida and Kansas City but also reflect influences from France and New Orleans.
Desauguste has a flair for plating and presentation, therefore Mesob trends more upscale than the standard establishments. The menu offerings also are more diverse, with vegan and vegetarian options, as well as fish (red snapper) and meat offerings (lamb, goat and oxtails). Prices reflect the restaurant’s ambitions — most entrees range between $17 and $23, a significant jump for ethnic dishes that are often incorrectly perceived by American diners as inherently less expensive to produce.
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- At Lalibela in Little Ethiopia, Order the Doro Wot and Ask for an Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony