The kitfo presentation is a fetching example of Goorsha Durham’s self-described “modern Ethiopian cuisine,” but it’s by no means the only one.
By Greg Cox (News & Observer) |
DURHAM, N.C.―Injera, the Ethiopian sourdough flatbread made from teff flour, is often likened to a crepe. To me, injera’s thickness and texture — soft, pliable and spongy, ideal for soaking up juices — are more like a pancake.
Kitfo, a dish of minced raw beef, butter and spices, is Ethiopia’s amped-up answer to steak tartare.
The turmeric and ginger notes in the yellow split pea stew kik alecha remind me of Indian chana dal.
Whenever I write about Ethiopian cuisine, I can’t resist relating dishes to more familiar foods. The comparisons aren’t precisely accurate, of course, but I find they’re a helpful way to describe a cuisine that’s relatively little known in these parts. (By my count, only six Ethiopian restaurants have opened in the Triangle in the 23 years I’ve been writing about the local food scene).
Until now, though, I’ve never compared an Ethiopian dish to a taco. That’s just what Goorsha Durham’s kitfo presentation calls to mind: injera cut into taco size rounds, folded around kitfo and spinach (the “lettuce”), and topped with crumbles of Ethiopian fresh cheese (“queso fresco”). They’re even folded taco style, and served two to an order on a taco tray.
910 W Main Street
Durham, NC 27701
The kitfo presentation is a fetching example of Goorsha’s self-described “modern Ethiopian cuisine,” but it’s by no means the only one. Sambusas, savory pastries with a filling of lentils, onions, garlic and jalapeños wrapped in shatter-crisp phyllo, come with a pungent green sauce served in a sleek ceramic spoon of the sort used for tasting menus. Entrees are served on elegant rectangular platters.
Continue reading this story at News & Observer
- Where to try Ethiopian brunch in Toronto
- Adama Ethiopian in Columbia Heights, Minnesota
- Comal Adds Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony to Its International Offerings
- It takes 20 minutes to brew this Ethiopian coffee and it’s worth the wait
- Makeda Restaurant: An Ethiopian newcomer makes a spicy splash in Alexandria